Test of wind sensor on mast top

Introduction

You should conduct the following tests if your wind sensor does not seem to be working at all, that is, if you see no data for apparent wind on any display in the system. Alternatively:

• If apparent wind is working and the problem is only with true wind, go here instead: Apparent wind, true wind, and ground wind, and data required to calculate them.
• If the data appears correct on one display but wrong on another, go here: ST60, ST60+, i60 analog wind/rudder: angles different on another display.
• If you have wind data on one display but not on another, this may help (the principles also apply to modern STNG instruments): Diagnosing Seatalk1 (Seatalk, ST1) communication problems.

Applicable Products

These tests apply to the wind vane and Rotavecta sensors that can be used with the following instrument systems:

• Current: i40, i60, i70, ITC5
• Retired: ST30, ST50, ST60, ST60+, ST290, ST70, ST70+

It does not apply to wireless wind systems (TackTick) or ST80 wind vanes.

Pre-checks

Before performing the tests below, check that the anemometer cups and/or vane are intact and that the transducer is securely tightened to the masthead block. They can often be damaged by birds. Raymarine has produced two types of transducers for the wind instruments. If the cups are shaped like trapezoids (ST50, earlier ST60), the part number for the replacement vane feather and cups is E28081. If the cups are shaped like hemispheres (shown below, used on later ST60/60+ to the present time), the part number for the replacement vane feather and cups is A28167:

The spare cups for the Rotavecta sensor are part D240:

Test Process

You will need a multimeter and a wind display to connect the sensor to, to provide the power supply to the sensor. The display must of course be powered from a 12V supply as usual. When the wind data is NOT working (there is no point testing when the wind data is working normally), you need to measure signal voltages.

1. Set your multimeter to measure DC voltage.
   
   
2. If your multimeter is a manual-range type (generally cheaper, simpler, or older models), use the 20V range.
   
   
3. Connect the wind sensor to the display, power the display on, and poke your meter probes into the rear of the crimp terminals of the wind sensor so that you are measuring the same voltages that the display is seeing.

Follow the relevant guide below for wind vane or Rotavecta sensor types:

Testing with a Multimeter: Forward-facing Wind Vane

First, measure the supply voltage from the display to the wind vane:

Signal: Supply to Wind Vane

• Positive meter probe connection: Red
• Negative meter probe connection: Bare / shield / black / uninsulated
• Expected reading: Approx. 8V steady

If you do not see an 8V supply, the display (or ITC5, or Wind Pod, etc.) may be faulty.

Next, measure the wind angle pair:

Signal: Wind Angle

• Positive meter probe connection: Blue
• Negative meter probe connection: Bare / shield / black / uninsulated
• Expected reading: Approx. 2 - 6V, changing smoothly as the wind vane feather turns. Should go from ~2V to ~6V to ~2V once per complete rotation of the vane feather.
  
  

Signal: Wind Angle

• Positive meter probe connection: Green
• Negative meter probe connection: Bare / shield / black / uninsulated
• Expected reading: Approx. 2 - 6V, changing smoothly as the wind vane feather turns. Should go from ~2V to ~6V to ~2V once per complete rotation of the vane feather. 90 degrees out of step with blue voltage.

Blue and green are a sine-cosine wind angle pair, where the voltage on each will smoothly change within this range as the wind vane rotates. If you see a voltage significantly outside this range, or the voltage on either color is static as the wind vane rotates, you have a problem with cabling, masthead connector, or transducer.

The wind angle is what instruments use to detect the presence of the transducer, so if you have an incorrect voltage here you will often see no wind data at all (no speed or direction, when set to apparent).

If the voltages on red, green, and blue are all normal, finally measure the wind speed:

Signal: Wind Speed

• Positive meter probe connection: Yellow
• Negative meter probe connection: Bare / shield / black / uninsulated
• Expected reading: 0V to between approx. 5V to 8V pulses, two pulses per rotation of the anemometer cups (exact voltage depends on display model, can be as low as 3.2V).

At low wind speeds or when turning the cups by hand, you'll see each individual pulse, but at higher wind speeds, your multimeter will average the voltage and will not show a clear reading. It's best to do this test by turning the cups by hand or in very light wind conditions.

If any of the measurements on blue, green, or yellow show a static voltage when the cups/vane are moving, you may have a fault with the wind vane, or more commonly some moisture inside the masthead connector or damage to the cable:

• A constant 0V is likely to mean a break in the cable or some damage creating a short between the signal wire and the bare/shield or signal wire and the mast itself, or a corroded masthead connector.
  
  
• A constant higher voltage may mean a wind vane fault, a short in the cable, or liquid water in the connector creating a partial short between the pins (in which case you should remove the power to reduce corrosion).

If in doubt, you can get the display or wind vane checked by Raymarine's Product Repair Center or your nearest technical service dealer.

If You Need to Test with the Wind Vane Down on Deck

Here is the pinout of the wind vane's connector:

• Pin: 1, Color: Black, Signal: 0V
• Pin: 2, Color: Red, Signal: 8V supply
• Pin: 3, Color: Green, Signal: Wind angle
• Pin: 4, Color: Blue, Signal: Wind angle
• Pin: 5, Color: Yellow, Signal: Wind speed

To bypass the cable and test the wind vane directly, you will need to supply 8VDC between pins 2 (positive) and 1 (negative) and measure the signal voltages on the other 3 pins.

Testing with a Multimeter: Vertical Rotavecta Sensor Type

Signal: Constant Current Supply and Signal

• Positive meter probe connection: Red
• Negative meter probe connection: Blue
• Expected reading: Pulses between approx. 2.8V and approx. 7.5V as the cups rotate. Exact voltages will depend on display model.

At low wind speeds or when turning the cups by hand, you'll see each individual pulse, but at higher wind speeds, your multimeter will average the voltage and will not show a clear reading. It's best to do this test by turning the cups by hand or in very light wind conditions. If you see 0V, this is likely a display fault (no supply voltage). Any higher static voltage is likely to be a cable or Rotavecta fault.